http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/list/fishtales/ AquariumHobbyist.com's free email newsletter about keeping, breeding, and understanding fish and marine life en http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/archive/fishtales/20071023021628/ Hi, everyone! We're happy to announce that we'll be starting up our weekly fish and pond chats again this week!<BR> <BR> Please join us every Tuesday evening from 10-11 PM Eastern Time in the AquariumHobbyist chat room here:<BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_id=1014">http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_id=1014</A></TT><BR> <BR> If you are registered already for our site, just log in with your regular username and password. If not, you can register here (it's free):<BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/myaccount/register.php">http://www.pethobbyist.com/myaccount/register.php</A></TT><BR> <BR> or just click &quot;Log in as a guest.&quot;<BR> <BR> If you have any problems accessing the chat room, visit our help area:<BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/chatfaq.html">http://www.pethobbyist.com/chatfaq.html</A></TT><BR> <BR> We look forward to seeing you there!<BR> <BR> PHPanzer and all of us at AquariumHobbyist.com!<BR> <BR> <BR> --<BR> <BR> The following information is a reminder of your current mailing<BR> list subscription: <BR> <BR> You are subscribed to the following list: <BR> [list_name]<BR> <BR> Using the following email:<BR> &#x65;&#x78;&#x61;&#109;&#112;&#x6C;&#101;&#x40;&#x65;&#x78;&#x61;&#x6D;&#x70;&#108;&#x65;&#x2E;&#99;&#x6F;&#x6D;<BR> <BR> You may automatically unsubscribe from this list at any time by <BR> visiting the following URL:<BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/u/[list]/">http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/u/[list]/</A></TT><BR> <BR> If the above URL is inoperable, make sure that you have copied the <BR> entire address. Some mail readers will wrap a long URL and thus break<BR> this automatic unsubscribe mechanism. <BR> <BR> You may also change your subscription by visiting this list's main screen: <BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=list&amp;l=[list">http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=list&amp;l=[list</A></TT>]<BR> <BR> If you're still having trouble, please contact the list owner at: <BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="mailto:&#x66;&#x69;&#115;&#104;&#116;&#x61;&#x6C;&#x65;&#x73;&#x40;&#x70;&#101;&#116;&#x68;&#111;&#x62;&#x62;&#121;&#x69;&#x73;&#116;&#46;&#x63;&#x6F;&#109;">&#x66;&#x69;&#115;&#104;&#116;&#x61;&#x6C;&#x65;&#x73;&#x40;&#x70;&#101;&#116;&#x68;&#111;&#x62;&#x62;&#121;&#x69;&#x73;&#116;&#46;&#x63;&#x6F;&#109;</A></TT><BR> <BR> The following, physical address is associated with this mailing list: <BR> <BR> * http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/archive/fishtales/20050304180723/ We've had an addition to our lineup of guests for our special guest chats tonight on AquariumHobbyist.com!<BR> <BR> Joining Cheri and Chuck from MASNA at 9 PM Eastern will be John Brandt, who is the Marine Aquarium Council/United States Coral Reef Task Force representative for MASNA. He is on the Board of Directors of the Chicagoland Marine Aquarium Society (CMAS), and serves on the Marine Aquarium Council (MAC) as MASNA Representative. He has lectured at two MACNAs and many more times for the Chicagoland Marine Aquarium Society. He is involved in aquarium industry reform issues, which includes an active relationship with the United States Coral Reef Task Force (USCRTF) and the Marine Aquarium Council (MAC).<BR> <BR> The MASNA chat, as well as the cichlid chat immediately afterward with the American Cichlid Association's Morrell Devlin, will be held in our regular fish and marine life chat room:<BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat">http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat</A></TT><BR> <BR> You can get expanded info on our chats here:<BR> <BR> MASNA Chat<BR> <TT><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/articles/MASNA.html">http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/articles/MASNA.html</A></TT><BR> <BR> Cichlid Chat<BR> <TT><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/articles/MorrellDevlin.html">http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/articles/MorrellDevlin.html</A></TT><BR> <BR> We hope to see you there!<BR> <BR> Heidi Hart<BR> PHSplendens<BR> Site Coordinator, AquariumHobbyist.com<BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> --<BR> <BR> The following information is a reminder of your current mailing<BR> list subscription: <BR> <BR> You are subscribed to the following list: <BR> FishTales<BR> <BR> Using the following email:<BR> &#101;&#x78;&#x61;&#x6D;&#x70;&#108;&#101;&#64;&#101;&#x78;&#97;&#x6D;&#x70;&#108;&#101;&#46;&#99;&#x6F;&#x6D;<BR> <BR> You may automatically unsubscribe from this list at any time by <BR> visiting the following URL:<BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=u&amp;l=fishtales&amp;e=&#101;&#x78;&#x61;&#x6D;&#x70;&#108;&#101;&#64;&#101;&#x78;&#97;&#x6D;&#x70;&#108;&#101;&#46;&#99;&#x6F;&#x6D;&amp;p=[pin">http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=u&amp;l=fishtales&amp;e=&#101;&#x78;&#x61;&#x6D;&#x70;&#108;&#101;&#64;&#101;&#x78;&#97;&#x6D;&#x70;&#108;&#101;&#46;&#99;&#x6F;&#x6D;&amp;p=[pin</A></TT>]<BR> <BR> If the above URL is inoperable, make sure that you have copied the <BR> entire address. Some mail readers will wrap a long URL and thus break<BR> this automatic unsubscribe mechanism. <BR> <BR> You may also change your subscription by visiting this list's main screen: <BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=list&amp;l=fishtales">http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=list&amp;l=fishtales</A></TT><BR> <BR> If you're still having trouble, please contact the list owner at: <BR> <BR> <TT><A HREF="mailto:&#x66;&#x69;&#x73;&#104;&#116;&#x61;&#x6C;&#x65;&#x73;&#64;&#x70;&#101;&#116;&#104;&#x6F;&#98;&#98;&#121;&#x69;&#115;&#116;&#x2E;&#99;&#111;&#x6D;">&#x66;&#x69;&#x73;&#104;&#116;&#x61;&#x6C;&#x65;&#x73;&#64;&#x70;&#101;&#116;&#104;&#x6F;&#98;&#98;&#121;&#x69;&#115;&#116;&#x2E;&#99;&#111;&#x6D;</A></TT><BR> <BR> The following, physical address is associated with this mailing list: <BR> <BR> * http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/archive/fishtales/20050226140633/ If you are unable to read this email, please visit http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/FishChat7.html for a web based version. <p> </td> </tr> </table> </td> </tr> </table> <p>&nbsp;</p></td> <td width="400" valign="top"> <form action="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi" method=POST name=default_form> <h3>FishTales Message</h3><p><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 bgColor=white border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD></td><td><TABLE cellSpacing=4 cellPadding=4 width=560 border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD><table border=1 bordercolor=#368BA0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td><center><A name=top><IMG src="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/Images/FishLogo.jpg"></A></center></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></tr></td></table><TABLE width=560 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=6 width=560 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=180 bgColor=#368BA0><FONT color=#D8C8BC> <center><A name=Events><P><img border="0" ALIGN="center" alt="" src="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/AquariumHobbyist/Images/LionFish.jpg"><P><STRONG>Chat Week Events</Strong></center> <center> <font size="2"> <P> <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/ChatWeek7.html"><font color="white">All PetHobbyist.com Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.doghobbyist.com/DogChat7.html"><font color="white">Dog Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.cathobbyist.com/CatChat7.html"><font color="white">Cat Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.birdhobbyist.com/BirdChat7.html"><font color="white">Bird Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/FishChat7.html"><font color="white">Fish & Aquarium Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.kingsnake.com/HerpChat7.html"><font color="white">Reptile & Amphibian Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.exotichobbyist.com/articles/ExoticChat7.html"><font color="white">Critter Chats</font></A> <BR><BR></center></font> <center><FORM METHOD="POST" ACTION="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi"> <INPUT TYPE="hidden" NAME="list" VALUE="fishtales"> <INPUT TYPE="hidden" NAME="flavor" VALUE="subscribe"> <FONT SIZE="-2">Subscribe to <I>FishTales</I>, the free email newsletter of AquariumHobbyist.com!<BR> Email Address:</FONT> <INPUT TYPE="TEXT" NAME="email"> <INPUT TYPE="SUBMIT" VALUE="Signup"> </FORM></center></font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <P align=left><A name=Attend><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">How to Attend</font></STRONG></P> <font color=white><P><font color=white> These events will be held in chat rooms listed above. To access the chats:</font> <P><font color=white> <LI>If you are a registered user of our site, simply follow the direct link to the chat, which for the main AquariumHobbyist.com chat room is <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat"> <font color="white">Fish & Marine Life Chat</font></A>, and log in with your username and password. (Forgot them? <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/myaccount/member.php?action=forgot"><font color="white">Click here</font></A>!) <LI>If you are not already a registered user of the site, registration is not required - simply go to <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com"><font color="white">chat.pethobbyist.com</font></A> and use the "Guest" log-in option, then select Fish & Marine Life Chat as your chat room.</font> <P> <font color="white">There is nothing to download or install, but the system does require you to have java enabled in your browser settings. We strongly suggest you access the room before the chat, so you have time to address any difficulties you might have. You might want to drop by one of our <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/schedule.php"><font color="white">regular weekly chats</font></A> as a test run. If you have trouble, please visit our <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/chatfaq.html"><font color="white">Chat Help Area</font></A>.</font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <FONT color=white> <P align=left><A name=More><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">More Information</font></STRONG><br> <P> There is more information about each chat available at the links in the right hand column. Simply click on the species in which you are interested for a more detailed listing. Some of the chats even have free email reminders you can sign up for! <P></P></FONT> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> </td> </P> <TD width=400> <font color="#368BA0"><P> <b><I>All dates and times subject to change. Sign up to get a free email notice of final changes, plus a reminder of each chat event!</I></b> <form action="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi"> <input type="hidden" name="flavor" value="subscribe"> <input type="hidden" name="list" value="fishchat"> <input type="text" name="email" value="email address"> <input type="submit" value="Submit"> </form> </font> <FONT color=#464646><UL> <li><FONT color=#464646><A HREF="#MASNA"><FONT color=#464646>Marine Aquarium Societies of North America </font></a> <li><A HREF="#Cichlid"><FONT color=#464646>Tank Busters! Central and South American Cichlids </font></a> <li><A HREF="#Attend"><FONT color=#464646>How to Attend </font></a> <li><A HREF="#More"><FONT color=#464646>More Information </font></a> <li><A HREF="#Events"><FONT color=#464646>Chat Week Events </font></a></UL></font> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <IMG SRC="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/Images/CheriChuck.jpg" BORDER="1" ALIGN="left" alt=""><br><A name=MASNA><b><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Marine Aquarium Societies of North America<BR> Cheri Phillips, President<br>Chuck Scannell, Webmaster and Past President</b></b><br><i><font color="#368BA0">Friday, March 4, at<br>9 PM Eastern, in<br>AquariumHobbyist.com's</font> <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Fish & Marine Life Chat Room</font></A></i></font> <font color=#464646><P> AquariumHobbyist.com is proud to support the <A HREF="http://www.masna.org/">Marine Aquarium Societies of North America</A> (MASNA), and welcomes them to our Seventh Annual Chat Week, where they will discuss the organization, the 2005 conference, and the variety of ways that MASNA can help societies and hobbyists. <P> MASNA is a not-for-profit organization composed of more than 30 marine aquarium clubs, hobbyists throughout North America totaling over 1,200 individuals and 15 corporate sponsors. MASNA's mission is to: <LI>Educate their members with quarterly newsletters, the MACNA conference, and other sanctioned events <LI>Assist in forming and promoting the growth of clubs within the hobby and the education of their members while ensuring a sustainable future for the marine environment <LI>Encourage the ethical growth of the marine aquarium hobby and support captive breeding/propagation <LI>Support efforts to eliminate abuses in collecting and transporting marine organisms <P> <B>Cheri Phillips, President, MASNA</B><BR> A resident of the San Francisco Bay Area, Cheri Phillips is currently president of MASNA, and also serves as Co-Program Director for SEABay (Saltwater Enthusiast Association of the Bay Area) and is a moderator on Reef Central. Cheri says, "I believe in what MASNA stands for and hope I can make a significant contribution with my ideas, energy and passion for the marine aquarium hobby."<BR><BR> <P> <B>Chuck Scannell, Webmaster and Past President, MASNA</B><BR> Chuck Scannell is a member of the Chesapeake Marine Aquaria Society, and served MASNA as Director of Internet Promotion and President for two years in a row. He currently keeps five reef tanks and says, "I believe the future of this hobby is through promotion and awareness as well as captive propagation of marine organisms." </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P></FONT><FONT color=white><FONT color=#ffffff> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> </FONT> <p><A name=Cichlid><b><IMG SRC="http://www.aquamojo.com/jpgs/AquaMoJo.jpg" BORDER="1" ALIGN="left" width="175" height="258" alt=""><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Morrell Devlin of the American Cichlid Association<BR> Tank Busters! Central and South American Cichlids</b></b><br><i><font color="#368BA0">Friday, March 4, at 10 PM Eastern, in</font> <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Fish & Marine Life Chat</font></A></i><br></font> <font color=#464646><P> Morrell Devlin of the <A HREF="http://www.cichlid.org/" TARGET="_blank">American Cichlid Association</A> and <A HREF="http://www.aquamojo.com" TARGET="_blank">AquaMoJo.com</A> is an admitted cichlidaholic. His most passionate interest is in the Central and South American species, most of which are in the 12-16 inch range - the tank busters. He currently houses 3,600 gallons of freshwater fish in his home. Come learn about keeping "tank busters" as well as the care of cichlids and their conservation in the wild! <P> The American Cichlid Association strives to: <LI>Gather, organize and disseminate knowledge of the family Cichlidae <LI>Further the conservation of cichlids and their natural habitats <LI>Promote fellowship among cichlid hobbyists <P> You can join the ACA <A HREF="http://www.cichlid.org/Memberships.html" TARGET="_blank">here</A>. </font> </font></font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> </P></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR><tr><td><center><HR width=548 color=#368BA0 SIZE=2></center></tr></td></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></p> -- <p>The following information is a reminder of your current mailing list subscription: </p> <p>You are subscribed to the following list: </p> <p><strong>FishTales</strong></p> <p>Using the following email:</p> <p><strong>&#101;&#120;&#97;&#x6D;&#112;&#x6C;&#101;&#x40;&#x65;&#120;&#97;&#109;&#x70;&#x6C;&#101;&#46;&#x63;&#111;&#x6D;</strong></p> <p>You may automatically unsubscribe from this list at any time by visiting the following URL:</p> <p> <a href="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=u&l=fishtales&e=&#101;&#120;&#97;&#x6D;&#112;&#x6C;&#101;&#x40;&#x65;&#120;&#97;&#109;&#x70;&#x6C;&#101;&#46;&#x63;&#111;&#x6D;&p=1234"> http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=u&l=fishtales&e=&#101;&#120;&#97;&#x6D;&#112;&#x6C;&#101;&#x40;&#x65;&#120;&#97;&#109;&#x70;&#x6C;&#101;&#46;&#x63;&#111;&#x6D;&p=1234 </a> </p> <p>If the above URL is inoperable, make sure that you have copied the entire address. Some mail readers will wrap a long URL and thus break this automatic unsubscribe mechanism.</p> <p>You may also change your subscription by visiting this list's main screen:</p> <p> <a href="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=list&l=fishtales"> http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?f=list&l=fishtales </a> </p> <p>If you're still having trouble, please contact the list owner at:</p> <p> <a href="mailto:&#102;&#x69;&#x73;&#x68;&#116;&#x61;&#108;&#101;&#115;&#64;&#x70;&#101;&#116;&#104;&#x6F;&#98;&#x62;&#121;&#x69;&#115;&#116;&#x2E;&#x63;&#x6F;&#109;"> &#102;&#x69;&#x73;&#x68;&#116;&#x61;&#108;&#101;&#115;&#64;&#x70;&#101;&#116;&#104;&#x6F;&#98;&#x62;&#121;&#x69;&#115;&#116;&#x2E;&#x63;&#x6F;&#109; </a> </p> <p>The following, physical address is associated with this mailing list:</p> <pre> * </pre> http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/archive/fishtales/20041221152636/ <center> <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 bgColor=white border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD></td><td><TABLE cellSpacing=4 cellPadding=4 width=600 border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD><table border=1 bordercolor=#368BA0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td><center><A name=top><IMG src="http://aquariumhobbyist.com/artoffishkeeping/FTlogo.jpg"></A></center></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></tr></td></table><TABLE width=600 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=6 width=600 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=185 bgColor=#368BA0><FONT color=#D8C8BC> <P><BR><A name=Editor><STRONG>From the Editor<BR></STRONG></font><font color=white><font color=white><P> <center><IMG src="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/7637betta3.jpg" width="114" height="98"></center><br>That time of year is upon us once again. With the holiday season comes long lines in the stores, fighting crowds, and bumper to bumper traffic, and the last thing we want to think about is rushing home to clean the fish tank. Please take the time to think of your finned friends, and remember that they are unable to clean their homes themselves and need that little bit extra that you have to give. Consider it the best possible gift you could give them. <P> While trying to find that perfect gift for someone special in your life, also keep in mind that a fish, or any pet for that matter, are a poor gift for the unsuspecting recipient. Not only may they be unwanted, but also with all the hustle and bustle they may become neglected from the start. <P> Remember that with just a little bit of care and planning your pets will live a long and happy life. <P> The lines at the bookstore getting you down? Don't have time to drive to the bookstore? Then check out the <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/">AquariumHobbyist.com Bookstore</A> and <A HREF="http://www.pondhobbyist.com/books/">PondHobbyist.com Bookstore</A>! There is a wide variety of books to chose from and even calendars and magazines. <P> What's more, we have a new, free email newsletter all about books. <P> To sign up for this free newsletter, called PetTales, go to: <P> <A HREF="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?flavor=archive&list=pettales">PetTales</A> <P> The Seventh Annual Chat Week on AquariumHobbyist.com will be held a bit later in the winter than in previous years, from February 27-March 5, 2005, in order to allow our staff, users, and guests to spend the holidays with their family. We are already building our lineup of guests, but would love to hear your suggestions. If you would like to be a guest, or know of someone you'd like to see as a guest, or even a topic or subject you'd like to see covered during chat week, please use this link to let us know: <P> <STRONG><A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phchristy" TARGET="_blank">Contact PHChristy</A></STRONG> <P> Please be sure to give contact information for a guest you are suggesting, if possible. <P> As we confirm dates and add guests, the complete schedule for Chat Week 7 will appear on our <b><A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/ChatWeek7.html">main Chat Week page</A></b>, with more complete site-specific schedules appearing at the links to the right. This page will also include a list of confirmed guests who are not yet scheduled for a specific date and time, as well as directions on how to attend the chat and where to find more complete information. <P> Happy Holidays from all of us! <P> <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phsplendens"><font color=white>PH Splendens</font></A><BR> Forum Coordinator<br>PetHobbyist<br>Site Coordinator<BR> <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/"><font color=white>Aquarium Hobbyist.com</font></A><BR> <CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <P align=left><A name=Hot><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">What’s Hot on AquariumHobbyist!</font></STRONG></P> Visit these links to see what topics are hot on the AquariumHobbyist forums this week! <font color=white><UL><LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=14284,14284"><font color=white>What is too high for nitrates?</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=14386,14386"><font color=white>New fish gone bad</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=14335,14335"><font color=white>Oscar Tricks</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=14413,14413"><font color=white>New to saltwater tanks</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=14417,14417"><font color=white>Betta questions</FONT></a> </UL></FONT> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <FONT color=white> <P align=left><A name=Chat><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">Fish Chats</font></STRONG><br> <i>All times Eastern<br> In <a href="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/"><font color=white>Fish and Marine Life</FONT></a></i> <P>Friday 9-10 PM Fish Tales<br> Friday 10-11 PM Maquaculture<br> Sunday 8-9 PM Open Fish Chat <P></P></FONT> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> </td> </P> <TD> <H4><font color="#368BA0">December 2004<br>IN THIS ISSUE</font></H4> <FONT color=#464646><UL> <li><FONT color=#464646><A HREF="#Editor"><FONT color=#464646>From the Editor</font></a> <li><A HREF="#Hot"><FONT color=#464646>What’s Hot on AquariumHobbyist!</font></a> <li><A HREF="#article1"><FONT color=#464646>Sick Fish?</font></a> <li><A HREF="#article2"><FONT color=#464646>Nature's Nitrogen Cycle</font></a> <li><A HREF="#Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Chat Times & Days</font></a></UL></font> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <P><STRONG><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Got a Sick Fish?<BR> By Jonathan Lowrie</font><BR></STRONG></font> <font color=#464646><P> If you have a dire emergency, and cannot find the information you need and cannot wait for response on the forums, then you should begin with these basic steps. <P>For a freshwater system, do a 50 percent water change. A water change of this size should help negate any problems with water quality. It will remove fish wastes, and also help stabilize pH, and remove ammonia, and nitrite. Also, reduce food by 50 percent. Until it can be determined how much food you feed, it is safe to cut back. Overfeeding is a leading cause of water quality problems. Don't forget to test the water. If you can test the water, and find an abnormal value, you can work to correct that problem. <P><img src="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/2363975galanenome.JPG" alt="Flower Anemone, Courtesy of Chooch" height="132" align="left">For a marine system, do a 30 percent water change. Make sure to use the same salinity and temperature water. Again, this procedure will help alleviate any water pollutants and make them less toxic to the animals of the tank. If you see external parasites, a 3 minute freshwater dip, with water that is chlorine free, and of the same temperature may be used. Only do this with fish, and not corals or other animals, and only do this if you see parasites like saltwater ick (Cryptocaryon) or Velvet (oodinum). <P>Catching a disease early is the key to success. If you wait until the last minute, it may be too late. Fish usually hide signs of disease until they are close to death, so as soon as you notice a problem, act on it. <P><font size="2"><i>Water Quality</i></font> <P>The chemistry of water and water quality is one of the most confusing aspects of keeping fish. We have to think of the water of our aquariums just like the air we breathe. We don't like smog, or automobile exhaust, or bad odors, or chemicals in the air. Well, fish don't like pollutants in their water. <P>For all aquariums, the basic parameters to monitor on a regular basis are pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and hardness. PH deals with the acidity, or alkalinity of water, meaning is it an acid or a base. The pH scale goes from 1, an acid to 14 a base, with 7 being neutral. Most freshwater fish prefer a neutral (pH 7.0) range. <P>Other water parameters that should be tested are ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Please see the following article about 'cycling a new aquarium' for more information on these. Ammonia is very toxic to fish, and can build up rapidly, so steps need to be taken to eradicate it in order to treat the aquarium. Usually a large water change will solve the immediate problem of the high levels. We must then become aquarium sleuths and figure out WHY it was high to begin with. Was it overfeeding? Overcrowding? Maybe the filter malfunctioned. To best treat our fish, we need to know why they got sick in the first place. <p><i>Copyright 2003 by Jonathan Lowrie. Used with permission. All rights reserved.</i> </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P></FONT><FONT color=white><FONT color=#ffffff> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> </FONT> <P><A name=article2><FONT color=#ffffff><STRONG><font color="#368BA0">Nature's Nitrogen Cycle:<BR> Tending to our microscopic “garden”<BR> By <font color="#368BA0">Sue Emerick</font><BR></font></STRONG><BR><font color=#464646><P> <I>This article is a feature from our sister website, <A HREF="http://www.pondhobbyist.com">PondHobbyist.com</A>.</i> <P> <img src="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/7301fishflowers.jpg" alt="Courtesy of PHFasDog" width="150" height="124" align="left">Nature has this wonderful way of cleaning our environment for us. There are many “cycles” in nature that aid both plant and animal to survive on this earth. You can’t get a group of pond keepers together without the subject of the “cycle” coming up. The “cycle” is commonly known to those of us who keep fish as the “nitrogen cycle." This micro-world is essential when keeping fish in a pond and it is important that we understand how it works so that we can provide the best possible support system for it to thrive. Even though this process is a natural occurring phenomena in nature, it is up to the pond keeper to give this micro-world a place to live and encourage its healthy survival. <P> Basically this “cycle” is the natural process that systematically eliminates toxic ammonia by converting it to progressively less toxic compounds. <P> <i>Four Phases</i> <P> <LI>Fish excrete ammonia as waste from their gills, kidneys and normal respiration; decaying plant material also add to ammonia levels in the pond. <LI>A species of bacteria called NITROSOMONAS converts this ammonia into nitrite. <LI>A second bacteria called NITROBACTER converts this nitrite into nitrAte. <LI>Algae and aquatic plants utilize nitrate to produce chlorophyll which are in turn consumed by fish. The “cycle” repeats. <P> <i>Driving Factors</i> <P> <LI>Heat: Both types of bacteria are living organisms. As the temperature rises the bacteria become more energetic up to a maximum temperature of 80 degrees. Above 80 degrees these bacteria are very aggressive, but oxygen levels in the water are greatly depleted. The lack of ample oxygen becomes a limiting factor. Below 50 degrees very little nitrification occurs. <P> <LI>Oxygen: The chemical process used by both species of bacteria is oxidation. Like most living organisms, without sufficient oxygen present these organisms eventually die. <P> <LI>KH-Carbonate Hardness (buffering PH): Without amply supply of this additional “food supply” for the bacteria, these bacteria die off and the result is termed a “filter crash." <P> Our pond systems are not a “natural” environment no matter how hard we try to get it that way. Nature refreshes our natural water ways and lakes and renews that eco-system. Nature also controls how many fish can survive in a given body of water.. If a natural system is over-crowed, nature removes life so the system can survive. Our ponds, on the other hand, are closed re-circulating systems and often overstocked with fish and plants so we must oversee what nature cannot do in this artificial world. <P> This micro-world consists of several types of bacteria that when they interact with each other, will keep our water quality in balance thus keeping our fish safe and healthy. This “cycle” is most important when fish are present in the pond so, for the sake of this article, we’ll start there. <P> <i>Ammonia</i> <P> Ammonia is a gas that is water soluble. That means it remains in the water. When ammonia is present, fortunately nature provides certain bacteria which will chemically transform this toxin to Nitrite (by-product of the Nitrosomonas activity). Those bacteria are called “Nitrosomonas." Nitrosomonas need a surface to cling to and grow on (colonize). This would be your pond walls, rocks, filters provided, etc, even the inside walls of your plumbing will be a home to Nitrosomonas. Ammonia is the energy source for Nitrosomonas. Oxygen saturation in the pond water is extremely important to the survival of this bacteria. Without it this bacteria will turn anerobic and will cause stress and illnesses in your fish. <P> <LI>Acceptable test results: Zero <LI>Ammonia is very toxic to fish <LI>Ammonia is the first waste product of your fish and decaying organic matter <LI>Often the cause of the 1st mortalities in new ponds (new pond syndrome) <LI>Ammonia is directly irritating to fish gills and tissues <LI>Ammonia is controlled (eliminated) from the pond water by beneficial bacteria called Nitrosomonas <LI>Low levels of oxygen and KH (carbonates) in the water will cause Ammonia spikes <LI>Salt at .1% can temporarily protect fish <LI>By-product of the Nitrosomonas bacteria when consuming Ammonia is NITRITE <P> <i>Nitrite</i> <P> Nitrite will then be converted to Nitrates by another bacteria called Nitrobacter. Here we can see delays in colonization of this bacteria. Mother nature has thrown us a bit of a curve when it comes to nitrobacter. This bacteria is inhibited by ammonia being present in the water so this is the reason you will not see control of Nitrites until your ammonia levels are almost at zero. Once the ammonia levels are reduced to zero, then and only then, can nitrobacter begin to replicate and grow. This bacteria also requires a food source (nitrite), oxygen and a clean hard surface on which to live. The byproduct of Nitrobacter converting nitrites is Nitrate which is then released into the water. Nitrites are also very toxic to fish. The presence of Nitrites in the water is absorbed into the gills of the fish and will interfere with the fish’s ability to carry oxygen throughout the blood stream. This is called “brown blood disease." The fish essentially suffocates to death. <P> <LI>Acceptable levels of Nitrite = Zero <LI>The bacteria responsible for transforming Nitrites to NitrAtes is Nitrobacter <LI>Nitrite spikes are common in cooler water with heavy feeding & low PH levels <LI>Not immediately as toxic as Ammonia, but will suppress immune systems and Nitrite poisoning is possible (brown blood disease). Protect fish with a .1% salt solution. <LI>Other than certain fertilizer tables, Nitrite is caused almost exclusively by Nitobacter bacteria active in the bio filter <LI>Nitrite management is most effectively controlled by the use of a good bio filter system; water changes become necessary with a newly established pond <P> <i>Nitrate</i> <P> Nitrates are the end product of Nitrobacter consuming Nitrites. NitrAtes are the final product in the successful reduction of nitrogen from Ammonia to Nitrite to Nitrate. What we do know about the effects of Nitrates on fish is that its presence at higher levels (above 120 ppm) are Toxic to fish. What is now accepted is that the presence of Nitrates in the water will inhibit good growth and cause severe stress in fish which in turn will lead to illnesses such as bacterial infections (ulcers). It has long been assumed that some level of nitrates (20-60 ppm) can and are tolerated by fish. It has also been assumed that, since nitrate is a form of fertilizer, that it can be diminished with the presence of plants in the pond. Depending on your fish load and the quantity and type of plants in your pond, this may or may not control the nitrates in your pond environment. This is one reason why routine water changes are so very important. Removing (pumping out) water from the pond and replacing it with fresh treated water will dilute the presence of nitrates. Please do not believe that simply “topping off” the pond is considered a water change. Also very effective in Nitrate control is a type of filter referred to as a Trickle Tower or Wet/Dry filter systems. <P> <LI>Acceptable levels of Nitrate = 20-60 ppm <LI>The bacteria responsible for creating Nitrates is Nitrobacter <LI>Presence of excessive levels of NitrAtes in the water can retard healing, stunt growth and interfere with antibiotic treatments <LI>High levels of Nitrates are more toxic under conditions of low oxygen levels in the pond. <LI>Nitrates are used by plant life (especially algae) and that plant life is then consumed by fish, thus the “cycle” repeats <P> FISH & DECAYING ORGANICS = AMMONIA = NITROSOMONAS = NITRITE = NITROBACTER = NITRATE <P> Not only does the pond keeper need to care for the water environment to keep fish healthy and alive, good water care practices will also keep your bacteria alive and healthy which in turn supports your water quality and your fish health and growth. In ponds without fish, the “Cycle” is important in keeping the pond fresh and sweet smelling. <P> <i>Controlling Ammonia and Nitrite</i> <P> <LI>Provide a good home for your bacteria to grow. A good bio-filter (outside the pond); Don’t use chlorinated tap water to clean your bio-filter - chlorine will kill viable bacteria <LI>High oxygen saturation in the pond water (oxidation) <LI>Removing organics (decaying matter & fish waste) from the pond water system regularly <LI>Fresh test kits –Ammonia; Nitrite, Nitrate, PH & KH - replace every spring <LI>Use of salt at .1% (1 pound per 100 gallons) will temporarily protect fish from ammonia and nitrate spikes (up to 8 weeks maximum) <P> Note: Cleaning the surfaces that are the home to colonizing bacteria should never be stripped clean of bacteria – Only remove some of what has collected by gentle rinsing. If you can visualize this bacteria growing in layers, you want to remove only the excess growth so the lower layers of bacteria can receive oxygen to survive. If the bacteria gets too heavy (thick) the lower layers cannot receive oxygen and will turn anerobic. <P> <i>Controlling Nitrate Levels in the Pond</i> <P> <LI>Frequent water changes <LI>Introduce plant life and encourage some algae growth <LI>Trickle Tower (wet/dry) filter system to degas Nitrates <P> <i>Fish Health Issues Relating to this Nitrogen Cycle (water quality)</i> <P> I believe we can see now how the Nitrogen Cycle greatly effects the health of our fish and our ponds. Keeping that cycle viable is part of why we perform water changes, clean our filters and test our pond water. Don’t think of these tasks as “Chores,” but rather like tending any garden. You are providing a good environment for microscopic bacteria to grow. Just because you can’t see them, doesn’t mean they don’t need to be cared for and protected just as you care for your fish and water plants. Providing a good place for these little creatures to survive and multiply is probably the most important task a pond keeper can perform for the continued health of fish and pond. <P> If your fish show the following: <P> <LI>New, small fish die off within 2-3 weeks; <LI>Redness of fins – red veining on body; <LI>General poor health; <LI>Excess mucus production; <LI>Flashing; <LI>Pinecone disease; <LI>Fish isolating themselves from other fish; <LI>Unexplained deaths; <LI>Lethargy, lack of energy; <LI>Slowed growth; <LI>Delayed wound healing; <LI>Dramatic increased vulnerability to disease; <LI>Gasping at surface or congregating near waterfalls; <LI>Not eating; <P> Test, test, test. <P> Any of the health signs noted above should prompt the pond keeper to test for all parameters we have discussed here. Any of these parameters that are “out of acceptable ranges” can and will cause fish to become ill or, at the very least, place your fish at the “edge” where growth and immune systems are compromised. The slightest change in water temp or outside stressors can then push a fish over the edge into illness and/or death suddenly. If all water quality parameters are within “normal” acceptable ranges then it is safe to assume a parasite is at work in your pond or a major stressor (such as a severe cold snap in weather) has occurred while you weren’t looking and testing. <P> <LI>Replace your test kits in the spring <LI>Perform Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, PH and KH tests weekly (new pond) <LI>Perform Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and PH tests as indicated (established pond) <LI>Perform KH test weekly always <P> I hope this basic information about how your pond balances itself and what measures you can take as the pond keeper to encourage nature to perform at its maximum level, will take some of the drudgery out of the maintenance chores we all must perform while tending to a healthy pond. Next time you are out there power washing and draining your pond (in 50 degree - or less - weather) and/or netting out the debris that has settled to the pond floor, just keep in mind you are really tending to your “microscopic garden” and maybe those chores will have more of a purpose. <P> <I>Sue Emerick is a hobbyist who lives in the south suburbs of Minneapolis (Savage). She is a member of the <A HREF="http://www.MWGS.org">Minnesota Water Garden Society</A>.</I> <P> </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> </P></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR><tr><td><center><HR width=589 color=#368BA0 SIZE=2><P><BR><P>_______________________________<BR><I>Fishtales is copyright 2004 by OnlineHobbyist.com unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.</I><BR>_______________________________<BR></center></tr></td></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></center> http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/archive/fishtales/20031211000000/ <center> <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 bgColor=white border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD></td><td><TABLE cellSpacing=4 cellPadding=4 width=600 border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD><table border=1 bordercolor=#368BA0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td><center><A name=top><IMG src="http://aquariumhobbyist.com/artoffishkeeping/FTlogo.jpg"></A></center></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></tr></td></table><TABLE width=600 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=6 width=600 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=185 bgColor=#368BA0><FONT color=#D8C8BC> <P><BR><A name=Editor><STRONG>From the Editor<BR></STRONG></font><font color=white><font color=white><P> <center><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/1182aa.jpg" BORDER="0" alt="Saltwater - Austin Aquariums, Courtesy of alterna" WIDTH="155"></center><br>All this week is PetHobbyist’s 6th annual chat week. AquariumHobbyist has had some great guests so far, and tonight and tomorrow will prove to have two more added to that list. <p> Be sure to join us in the <a href="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/"><font color="white">Fish and Marine Life Chat</font></a> tonight December 11 at 8 pm EST when our special guest will be Julian Sprung from Two Little Fishies Inc. Julian Sprung is an author, photographer, aquarium design consultant and lecturer on marine aquariums, coral husbandry, and coral reef biology. Julian has a bachelor of science degree in zoology from the University of Florida, and has been keeping marine aquariums for over 30 years. Julian also is a co-founder and the Vice President of Two Little Fishies, Inc., an aquarium industry manufacturer and publisher. <p>Tomorrow night December 12 at 9 pm EST our special guest will be Dennis Gallagher from the International Marine Aquarium Conference, and the topic will be "The International Marine Aquarium Conference (IMAC) and What You Could Get Out of It". <p>Please visit <a href="http://www.pethobbyist.com/ChatWeek2003.html"><font color="white">Chat Week 2003 </font></a> for a full schedule of all of PetHobbyist’s special guests. <p>We look forward to seeing you there! <P> <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phsplendens"><font color=white>PH Splendens</font></A><BR> Forum Coordinator<br>PetHobbyist<br>Site Coordinator<BR> <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/"><font color=white>Aquarium Hobbyist.com</font></A><BR> <CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <P align=left><A name=Hot><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">What’s Hot on AquariumHobbyist!</font></STRONG></P> Visit these links to see what topics are hot on the AquariumHobbyist forums this week! <font color=white><UL><LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7924,7924"><font color=white>Mystery snail laying eggs...</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7886,7886"><font color=white>Is this all I need?</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7922,7922"><font color=white>Bent Spines - Other Causes...</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7930,7930"><font color=white>Water stays cloudy!</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7908,7908"><font color=white>Overcrowding issues?...</FONT></a> </UL></FONT> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <FONT color=white> <P align=left><A name=Chat><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">Fish Chats</font></STRONG><br> <i>All times Eastern<br> In <a href="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/"><font color=white>Fish and Marine Life</FONT></a></i> <P>Friday 9-10 PM Fish Tales<br> Friday 10-11 PM Maquaculture<br> Sunday 8-9 PM Open Fish Chat <P></P></FONT> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> </td> </P> <TD> <H4><font color="#368BA0">December 11, 2003<br>IN THIS ISSUE?</font></H4> <FONT color=#464646><UL> <li><FONT color=#464646><A HREF="#Editor"><FONT color=#464646>From the Editor</font></a> <li><A HREF="#Hot"><FONT color=#464646>What’s Hot on AquariumHobbyist!</font></a> <li><A HREF="#article1"><FONT color=#464646>Fish for Beginners</font></a> <li><A HREF="#article2"><FONT color=#464646>Cichlids</font></a> <li><A HREF="#Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Chat Times & Days</font></a></UL></font> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <P><STRONG><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Fish for Beginners<BR> By <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phpiaffe"><font color="#368BA0">PHPiaffe</font></A><BR></STRONG></font> <font color=#464646><P> Last month we talked about how to set up our tank, now let’s talk about what goes in it! I’m going to just give you a brief overview of a few families of fish that are suitable for a beginner because they’re hardy, easy to care for, and not demanding as far as water quality or feeding requirements. All of the fish I will discuss need water parameters that are close to perfect, as do all saltwater fish, but they can withstand some fluctuation with little ill effect. Now, lets get to the good stuff! <p><i>Damsels and Clownfish</i> <P> <IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/644GoodClownpicsmall.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" ALT="A pic of my clownfish, Courtesy of poisonfrog420" width="175">Damsels and Clownfish are very hardy, and for beginners it is easy to keep these families, which are so closely related that hobbyists discuss them as one unit. They will tolerate a wide range of water quality fluctuations, from brackish to way too salty, and they will usually eat whatever the hobbyist presents them with. Damsels are so hardy that many people use them to cycle their tank, and they come through with little to no damage. Also, damsels and some clowns have the advantage of being relatively inexpensive compared to most other saltwater fish. Damsels are aggressive though, and clowns, once they’ve paired off, will defend a territory against all comers. This is especially true of maroon clowns, which at times will bite aquarists who try to clean their tank! As far as diet is concerned, they will eat anything from flake to frozen to tiny pieces of fish filet. They’re not hard to feed at all. To keep these guys, make sure you have plenty of caves that they can retreat into if they get scared, and make sure your water quality is at least good, if not perfect. <p><i>Triggers</i> <p>Aquarists consider Triggerfish to be one of the hardiest aquarium specimens that is possible to keep in captivity. They have the advantage of being aggressive and always hungry, and they become hand tame very easily, making them more of a dog than a fish to some people’s opinions. The downside of triggers, though, is that they are VERY aggressive and tend to eat their aquarium décor. Triggers will eat corals, and so are not suitable for a reef tank environment, and they will also chase and nip smaller fishes, and even sometimes fish the same size or larger than themselves, so they really should be in a tank on their own or with fish they cant possibly bully. Most triggers also get very big and should not be in a small tank, even though those cute juveniles at the aquarium store practically beg you to bring them home. Bringing a trigger into your tank can be the best and worst thing that has ever happened to you, so do your research, but most people will find having a trigger, if cared for properly, to be a very rewarding experience. <p><i>Puffers</i> <P> Puffer fish are another hardy addition to many aquariums, but they don’t have as many of the disadvantages of some of the triggers. They will still eat a varied diet, though flakes are not an option because they’re not meaty enough, and they also tend to nip at tank mates. But puffers become even more tame than triggers, if that’s what you’re looking for, they will swim into the aquarists hand to be petted, and they will also learn to recognize their keeper, swimming to the front of the glass for attention whenever he or she walks into the room. Puffers are fairly undemanding and very easy to spoil, which most people will do without even realizing it, as they’re just so cute. Puffers come from all oceans, with the porcupine coming from the Caribbean. Divers often play with these gentle fish that come right up and gaze into their masks as if asking them what they’re doing down there. Puffers also tend to destroy their tank, however, and need larger systems. <p><i>Pseudochromis (or Dottybacks)</i> <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/1194aa.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" ALT="Saltwater - Austin Aquariums, Courtesy of alterna" width="185">Pseudochromis or dottybacks are the smallest member of the grouper family. Most species are easy to care for and hardy, and have the advantage of being smaller, so they are better suited for the small to medium sized tanks. Dottybacks eat a wide range of fare, from flakes to frozen shrimp and plankton. They also are not shy of eating, or trying to eat, tank mates up to 3/4ths their size, and for this reason should be the smallest member of the aquarium if this is possible. Also, they are extremely territorial and there shouldn’t be but one per tank unless the tank is HUGE. Make sure they have many caves from which to choose, and they will be happy hanging out in their cave and coming out to chase away intruders. Pseudochromis are happy and easy tank inhabitants for beginners and advanced hobbyists alike. <p><i>Zebrasoma Tangs</i> <p>Zebrasoma tangs are one of the hardiest of the tang family, but they still are only included here with a warning. Water quality and forage for these animals must be perfect. Tangs as a family are very prone to parasite infections and marine velvet. They need to have vegetation available for them the entire time the lights are on in the tank, as these fish get the vast majority of their nutrients from grazing on algae all day on the reef. The meat protein that they ingest is almost incidental. In a tank of adequate size, ONE zebrasoma (that is, yellow, scopas, purple, sailfin, or desjardini) tang would be very happy as long as there is adequate rockwork and an area for open swimming. They do fairly well in a community tank setting, but there should only be one as the competition for food and swimming space between the tangs would be too great and stress both individuals unnecessarily. <p>Well, I hope I’ve given you some insight as to a few easy to keep, hardy, marine species for the beginner. If you have any questions, please visit the <a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com"><font color=#464646>aquariumhobbyist forums</font></a>, and we’ll be glad to help! <p>Until next month, keep swimming! </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P></FONT><FONT color=white><FONT color=#ffffff> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> </FONT> <P><A name=article2><FONT color=#ffffff><STRONG><font color="#368BA0">Cichlids<BR> By <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phphoenix"><font color="#368BA0">PHPhoenix</font></A><BR></font></STRONG><BR><font color=#464646><P><i>What is a Cichlid? Where did they originate?</i></p></font> <font color=#464646><P> <IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/5681fish1.gif" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" ALT="Male JD, Courtesy of Midask9" width="156">Cichlids come from the fish family Cichlidae. Origins are various parts of the world, which include: Africa, Asia, and South America. These fish are available in many different colors, and sizes. The most common variety of cichlids are the Angelfish and Oscars. <p><i>What are the different species of cichlids? Where can I find them?</i> <p>Did you know that Angelfish, and Oscars are considered cichlids? Other cichlids that are common, or rare are: <UL> <LI>African Butterfly cichlid (Anomalochromis thomasi) - This is a peaceful fish and likes to be paired with it’s own kind. Housing should be at least 15 gallons or more. Water temperature should be between 75 - 82° F. degrees. African Butterflies are compatible with other community, or similar sized species. They will grow up to 3”, and will accept live food, frozen or dried food such as: bloodworms, pellets, flake food. <LI>African Peacock cichlid (Aulonocara nyassae) - They are a very peaceful fish that need a lot of rocks and plants for hiding. African Peacocks prefer to be with groups of the same species. You will need a minimum of 35 gallons for this beautiful fish, because the growth will reach about 6.5”. This cichlid is carnivorous, but will accept flake food. <LI>Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) – Peaceful, but tend to be aggressive towards other fish and prefer to be in groups of the same kind. A minimum of 30 gallons is required for housing, and temperatures should be between 75 - 82° F degrees. Angelfish grow up to 6”, and they will accept flake food and bloodworms. <LI>Blood Parrots - This fish is a mixture of a Severum and a Red Devil. They are peaceful, and compatible in community aquariums with smaller peaceful fish. Blood parrots need a minimum of 45 gallons, and prefer to be in groups of the same species. Water temperature should be between 72 - 82° F degrees. They need plants, rocks and other places in which to hide. Blood Parrots will accept cichlid pellets, flake food, bloodworms, live food, and other meats. <LI>Discus - These fish are peaceful, and prefer to be in pairs of their own kind. Discus need a minimum of a 55-gallon tank. The water temperatures should range from 76 - 84 ° F degrees. Discus are carnivorous, but they will accept live foods, flakes, pellets, and beef hearts. PH level should be between 6.0 - 6.5, and they will grow to be about 8”. <LI>Green Terror - The green terror is aggressive, and does not do well with other fish. Green terrors prefer to be by themselves. Housing needs to be a minimum of 55-gallons. Water temperature should be within 70 - 76 ° F degrees. This fish will grow to be 12”. Green terrors need rocks and other places to hide in the aquarium. This species will accept bloodworms, earthworms, cichlid pellets, and feeder goldfish. They need to have their food rotated on a regular basis to prevent digestive problems. <LI>Jack Dempsey - Jack Dempsey is aggressive and is only compatible with fish of similar size. Housing needs to be at least 45-gallons or more. Water temperature should within 72-77 ° F. degrees. Jack Dempsey fish will accept: earthworms, feeder fish, lettuce, pellets, and many other foods that are meat. <LI>Kribensis – This is a peaceful fish, but territorial and they like to be with groups of their own species. Kribensis need a minimum tank size of 20 gallons or more. This breed of cichlid is smaller when compared to other species. These fish are omnivorous and will accept flake food. Parrot cichlid - This cichlid is peaceful, but prefers to be alone and will fight with males of the same species. Parrot cichlids need tanks over 55-gallons since they will grow to be about 12”. Parrots are omnivorous, and will accept flake and pellet food. Water temperature should range between 75 - 80 degrees ° F. <LI>Plain Goby - Plain Goby is another peaceful fish that prefers to be in groups. This cichlid needs a tank of at least 15-gallons. Since this species likes to hide, you should provide rocks, plants and other decor in the tank. Feed gobies flake food or pellets. Water temperature should range between 78 - 80° F. degrees. <LI>Ram – Many also know the Ram cichlid as the Butterfly cichlid or German Ram. This fish is peaceful, and loves to be paired up with it’s own species. The ram will grow to be 3”, which you can house them in a 15-gallon tank. Water temperature range should be between 72 - 82° F. degrees. Rams are another omnivorous fish that will accept flake food and pellets. </UL> <P> There are many other commonly found cichlids, but this is a basic list. There are some special cichlids that breeder breed for their color, and you can buy those through a breeder, or special order them with your local fish store. <p><i>What do I need to know about setting up a tank for cichlids?</i> <p>It really depends on what species of cichlid you are getting. If you are a beginner, or want to devote a tank to cichlids, answer the following questions to yourself: <p><OL> <LI>What size of an aquarium do I want? This question relates to the type of fish that will be occupying your aquarium. The species, and temperament, size and space. <LI>What species do I want to purchase? Depends on what you are looking for. Do you want colorful, odd, large, medium, small, easy, hard, or community? Odd meaning an unusual shape. Large, medium, small are again sizes of fish. Community would be an aquarium of different species of fish. <LI>How much time, and money am I willing to spend on fish?</OL> <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/28542whiteMaleMidas3.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" ALT="white male midas, Courtesy of MadAboutCichlids" width="155">Now that you have thought over the questions, and have decided it’s time to make that purchase. Aquariums come in different shapes, sizes, and of course prices. Cichlids are really better off in a minimum size of 15 gallons. Set up the tank 24-48 hours in advance, allowing chlorine to dissipate from the water, or use a good water conditioner. Now is also the time to decide whether you want to cycle your tank with or without fish. Please refer to past articles on cycling your tank:<br><br> <a href="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?flavor=archive&id=20030605000000&list=fishtales"><font color=#464646>Cycling Your Freshwater Tank</font></a><br> <a href="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi?flavor=archive&id=20030612000000&list=fishtales"><font color=#464646>Fishless Cycling</font></a> <p><i>Time To Add Fish</i> <P> My tank is finished cycling now what? Now you go back to your local fish store to buy your fish. Choosing the right fish for you, make sure the fish you see are healthy, and no signs of illness. What is a species tank? A species tank is when you have only one species. It could be a combination of the same species. <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/31779bigtank090.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" ALT="Female Red Zebra Cichlid, Courtesy of CynthiaClaudia" width="170">Once you have purchased your fish, allow the fish bag to float in water for up to 20 minutes. This regulates the temperature of the water in the bag to the same temperature in your tank. If you put your fish in your tank too soon, he or she might develop shock. Once the time is up, carefully cut the bag, and scoop the fish out of the bag, be careful not to add the bag water to your tank. It may take them a day or two to know their surroundings, and sometimes they may not eat the first day. Feeding times should be at least once a day. <p><i>Keeping and cleaning</i> <p>You will need to clean your tank frequently. Why? This helps keep unwanted parasites, and viruses from attacking your fish. Do you have a siphon vacuum? You can get one at your local fish store. Remember do water changes every week, about 20 percent and add that percentage back. <p><i>What happens if my fish get sick?</i> <p>If your fish become sick, depends on the type of symptoms he or she has. In order to have a healthy tank, you need to do water changes weekly as discussed in the above paragraph. There are certain antibiotics that are available to you at your local fish store. <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/13577O.B.&E.B..jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" ALT="Baby Cichlid, Courtesy of Rafc1" width="175">Well, I hope this helps you with your decision on Cichlids. Remember to research, before you buy. Plus, certain cichlids require larger aquariums, not all can live in smaller ones. Most important, some cichlids are aggressive, and can be mean to other fish. It is better to choose the right one that you will be happy with. </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> </P></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR><tr><td><center><HR width=589 color=#368BA0 SIZE=2><P><BR><P>_______________________________<BR><I>Fishtales is copyright 2003 by OnlineHobbyist.com unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.</I><BR>_______________________________<BR></center></tr></td></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></center> http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/archive/fishtales/20031201000000/ <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 bgColor=white border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD></td><td><TABLE cellSpacing=4 cellPadding=4 width=560 border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD><table border=1 bordercolor=#368BA0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td><center><A name=top><IMG src="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/Splendens/AHCWlogo.jpg"></A></center></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></tr></td></table><TABLE width=560 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=6 width=560 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=180 bgColor=#368BA0><FONT color=#D8C8BC> <center><A name=Events><P><img border="0" ALIGN="center" alt="" src="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/AquariumHobbyist/Images/LionFish.jpg"><P><STRONG>Chat Week Events</Strong></center> <center> <font size="2"> <P> <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/ChatWeek.html" TARGET="_blank"><font color="white">All PetHobbyist.com Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.doghobbyist.com/DogChat.html" TARGET="_blank"><font color="white">Dog Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.cathobbyist.com/CatChat.html" TARGET="_blank"><font color="white">Cat Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.birdhobbyist.com/BirdChat.html" TARGET="_blank"><font color="white">Bird Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/FishChat.html" TARGET="_blank"><font color="white">Fish & Aquarium Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.kingsnake.com/HerpChat.html" TARGET="_blank"><font color="white">Reptile & Amphibian Chats</font></A> <P> <A HREF="http://www.exotichobbyist.com/articles/CritterChat.html" TARGET="_blank"><font color="white">Critter Chats</font></A> <BR><BR></center></font> <center><FORM METHOD="POST" ACTION="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi"> <INPUT TYPE="hidden" NAME="list" VALUE="fishtales"> <INPUT TYPE="hidden" NAME="flavor" VALUE="subscribe"> <FONT SIZE="-2">Subscribe to <I>FishTales</I>, the free email newsletter of AquariumHobbyist.com!<BR> Email Address:</FONT> <INPUT TYPE="TEXT" NAME="email"> <INPUT TYPE="SUBMIT" VALUE="Signup"> </FORM></center></font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <P align=left><A name=Attend><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">How to Attend</font></STRONG></P> <font color=white><P><font color=white> These events will be held in chat rooms listed above. To access the chats:</font> <P><font color=white> <LI>If you are a registered user of our site, simply follow the direct link to the chat, which for the main AquariumHobbyist.com chat room is <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat"> <font color="white">Fish & Marine Life Chat</font></A>, and log in with your username and password. (Forgot them? <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/myaccount/member.php?action=forgot"><font color="white">Click here</font></A>!) <LI>If you are not already a registered user of the site, registration is not required - simply go to <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com"><font color="white">chat.pethobbyist.com</font></A> and use the "Guest" log-in option, then select Fish & Marine Life Chat as your chat room.</font> <P> <font color="white">There is nothing to download or install, but the system does require you to have java enabled in your browser settings. We strongly suggest you access the room before the chat, so you have time to address any difficulties you might have. You might want to drop by one of our <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/schedule.php"><font color="white">regular weekly chats</font></A> as a test run <B>ANYTIME AFTER WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 3</B>. Prior to that date, our chats will still be held in our old chat rooms. If you have trouble, please visit our <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/chatfaq.html"><font color="white">Chat Help Area</font></A>.</font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <FONT color=white> <P align=left><A name=More><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">More Information</font></STRONG><br> <P> There is more information about each chat available at the links in the right hand column. Simply click on the species in which you are interested for a more detailed listing. Some of the chats even have free email reminders you can sign up for! <P></P></FONT> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> </td> </P> <TD width=400> <font color="#368BA0"><P> <b><I>All dates and times subject to change. Sign up to get a free email notice of final changes, plus a reminder of each chat event!</I></b> <form action="http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi"> <input type="hidden" name="flavor" value="subscribe"> <input type="hidden" name="list" value="fishchat"> <input type="text" name="email" value="email address"> <input type="submit" value="Submit"> </form> </font> <FONT color=#464646><UL> <li><FONT color=#464646><A HREF="#Mark"><FONT color=#464646>Mark O'Shea </font></a> <li><A HREF="#Kevin"><FONT color=#464646>Kevin Kohen</font></a> <li><A HREF="#Brian"><FONT color=#464646>Dr. Brian Greig Fry </font></a> <li><A HREF="#Julian"><FONT color=#464646>Julian Sprung</font></a> <li><A HREF="#Martin"><FONT color=#464646>Martin A. Moe, Jr </font></a> <li><A HREF="#Tom"><FONT color=#464646>Tom Lang </font></a> <li><A HREF="#Attend"><FONT color=#464646>How to Attend </font></a> <li><A HREF="#More"><FONT color=#464646>More Information </font></a> <li><A HREF="#Events"><FONT color=#464646>Chat Week Events </font></a></UL></font> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <p><A name=Mark><b><IMG SRC="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/Images/MarkOShea.jpg" BORDER="1" align=left><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Mark O'Shea<BR> From Animal Planet's<br>"Mark O'Shea's Big Adventure"</b></b></p><p><br><br><i><font color="#368BA0">Monday, December 8, at<br>8 PMEastern, in<br>kingsnake.com's</font> <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Reptile+%26+Amphibian+Chat"><FONT color=#464646>MainRoom</font></A><br><font color="#368BA0">This chat is being co-presented<br>with kingsnake.com.</font> </i><BR></font> <font color=#464646><P> Come take a wild ride with Mark O'Shea! He's travelled to some of the world's most exotic locations, encountering some of the planet's deadliest and most fascinating reptiles and amphibians. From Arkansas to Argentina, India to Indonesia, and New Guinea to New Caledonia, Mark has come face to fang with king cobras, beaked seasnakes and silent rattlesnakes. He’s got up close and personal with snapping turtles, snappy gators and cryptic crocs. And he’s rubbed snouts with Komodo dragons, giant geckos, and skinks with an “extraterrestrial” twist. </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P></FONT><FONT color=white><FONT color=#ffffff> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> </FONT> <p><A name=Kevin><b><IMG SRC="http://a1272.g.akamai.net/7/1272/1121/20031128212409/www.liveaquaria.com/images/general/vetstaff_kohen.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" alt=""><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Kevin Kohen<BR> LiveAquaria.com</b></b><br><br><i><font color="#368BA0">Monday, December 8, at 9 PMEastern, in</font> <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Fish & Marine Life Chat</font></A></i><br><BR></font> <font color=#464646><P> As a lifelong hobbyist/enthusiast with a Bachelor of Science degree from Wright State University, Kevin has extensive knowledge of and wide-ranging experience in the aquarium industry. <p>Professionally, Kevin has helped pioneer important research studies in water chemistry management, filtration technologies, fish diseases, and acclimation techniques to safeguard the health of a wide range of aquatic species. He also was influential in the research and development of specialized shipping techniques that are now used by most distributors and exporters in the nation to ensure the health of aquatic life during transit. <p>As a hobbyist/enthusiast, Kevin has bred and reared nearly 100 species of fresh and saltwater fish, and in 1981 was one of the earliest pioneers in maintaining live corals in captivity. He has received the Saltwater Aquarium of the Year and Reef Aquarium of the Year awards from the Greater Dayton Aquarium Society. With membership in both the American Cichlid Association (ACA) and Marine Aquarium Societies of North America (MASNA), Kevin has a special interest in SPS coral propagation, performing research on advanced filtration techniques, and writing articles to help fish and coral owners build successful aquariums. </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <p><A name=Brian><b><IMG SRC="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/Images/BrianGriegFryAH.jpg" BORDER="1" ALIGN="left" alt=""><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Dr. Brian Greig Fry<BR> Deputy Director of the Australian Venom Research Unit</b> </b><br><br><i><font color="#368BA0">Wednesday, December 10, at 8 PM ET in kingsnake.com's</font> <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Reptile+%26+Amphibian+Chat"><FONT color=#464646>MainRoom</font></A><br><br><font color="#368BA0">This chat is being co-presented with kingsnake.com.</font> </i></i><BR></font> <font color=#464646><P> Dr. Brian Greig Fry is the Deputy Director of the Australian Venom Research Unit. He says, "I use my work in the field to continue a unique blend of science that focuses on advancing evolutionary theory through venomous animal wrangling skills, innovative science and unique specimens." He and wife Alexia "operate as a team of mutual adventurers driven by our curiousity for the natural world and how it all comes together." In addition to his work with terrestrial venomous snakes, Dr. Fry has also worked with venomous marine species including sea snakes (from one of which he received a bite that led to months of painful rehabilitation) and the poisonous crown-of-thorns starfish, shown in photo. <p>His sea snake research combines two of his favorite passions, venomous animals and doing ultra-deep scuba dives. Says Fry, "This research has been funded by the Australia & Pacific Science Foundation. One of the things we have discovered is a remarkable streamlining that the sea snake venoms underwent upon the colonisation of the ocean. Even more intriguing is the independent, parallel occurance in both the true sea snakes (<i>Acalyptophis, Enhydrina, Hydrophis</i>, etc. genera in the <i>Elapidae</i> snake family) as well as the sea kraits (<i>Laticauda genus</i> in the <i>Elapidae</i> snake family)." </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <p><A name=Julian><b><IMG SRC="http://www.theimac.org/photo_jsprung.jpg" WIDTH="100" HEIGHT="144" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" alt=""><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Julian Sprung<BR> Two Little Fishies, Inc.</b> </b><br><br><i><font color="#368BA0">Thursday, December 11, at 8 PM ET in</font> <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Fish and Marine Chat</font></A></i><BR><br><br><br><br></font> <font color=#464646><P> Julian Sprung is an author, photographer, aquarium design consultant and lecturer on marine aquariums, coral husbandry, and coral reef biology. Julian has a bachelor of science degree in zoology from the University of Florida, and has been keeping marine aquariums for over 30 years. Julian also is a co-founder and the Vice President of Two Little Fishies, Inc., an aquarium industry manufacturer and publisher. <P> Julian writes the column "Reef Notes" in <I>Freshwater and Marine</I> magazine, and has authored numerous articles in other publications such as <I>Seascope</I>, <I>Aquarium Frontiers</I> (which he co-founded with Daniel Ramirez and Terry Siegel), <I>Advanced Aquarist Online</I>, <I>Aquarium Fish Monthly</I>, <I>Marine Fish and Reef USA</I>, and <I>Tropical Fish Hobbyist</I>. His articles have also appeared in aquarium hobby magazines in Japan, France, Germany, Italy, and England. Julian wrote and narrated the video entitled "An introduction to the Hobby of Reef Keeping," the first product of his collaboration with Daniel Ramirez, which resulted in the formation of Two Little Fishies, Inc. <P> <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=1883693136"><IMG SRC="http://images.amazon.com/images/P/1883693136.01.MZZZZZZZ.jpg" BORDER="" ALIGN="right" alt=""></A>Julian's books are a continuation of this collaboration and include <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=1883693128"><font color="#368BA0">The Reef Aquarium, Volume One</font></a></B></I> and <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=1883693136"><font color="#368BA0">The Reef Aquarium Volume Two</font></A></B></I>, which he co-authored with J. Charles Delbeek, <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=1883693225"><font color="#368BA0">Reef Notes Revisited and Revised</font></a></B></I> (volumes 1, 2, 3, and 4) that feature his monthly question and answer columns with his own follow-up revisions, <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=1883693098"><font color="#368BA0">Corals: A Quick Reference Guide</font></a></B></I>, featuring hard and soft corals from around the world with approximately 700 photographs by the author, <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=1883693004"><font color="#368BA0">Invertebrates: A Quick Reference Guide</font></a></B></I>, and <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=1883693020"><font color="#368BA0">Algae: A Problem Solver Guide</font></a></B></I>. </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <p><A name=Martin><b><IMG SRC="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/Images/MartinMoe.jpg" BORDER="1" ALIGN="left" alt=""><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Martin A. Moe, Jr<BR> Author, <I>The Marine Aquarium Handbook</I>, <I>The Marine Aquarium Reference</I>, and numerous other titles</B> </b><br><br><I><font color="#368BA0">Date and Time TBA in</font> <A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Fish and Marine Chat</font></A></i><BR><br></font> <font color=#464646><P> Martin Moe has a masters degree in marine biology, and has worked as lifeguard, a teacher, a fishery biologist, a marine fish breeder, and a writer. He began breeding marine fish, pompano, in 1969 and then developed the techniques for breeding clownfish in 1972. He started Aqualife Research in 1973 with clownfish and goby culture and then moved the company to the Florida Keys in 1975. There, the company continued to breed clownfish and other species, but concentrated on developing a method for breeding the large Atlantic angelfish, the French and the gray. This effort was biologically but not economically successful. The company moved to Walker's Cay in the Bahamas in the mid 1980s and concentrated on commercial clownfish culture. Martin became a bit "burned out" with running a fish hatchery and in the late 80s, and turned to writing and publishing books with his wife Barbara. Barbara was very good for Martin. They met in 1959 over a cup of coffee; she married him, put him through school, had three kids, edited and published their books, and generally kept the whole show on the road. <P> <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=0939960079"><IMG SRC="http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0939960079.01.MZZZZZZZ.jpg" BORDER="" ALIGN="right" alt=""></A>Martin wrote <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=0939960079"><font color="#368BA0">The Marine Aquarium Handbook</font></A></B></I>, first edition published in 1982, which was very influential in the development of the marine aquarium hobby. <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=0939960052"><font color="#368BA0">The Marine Aquarium Reference</font></A></B></I> followed in 1989 and since then he and Barbara have published a comprehensive book on spiny lobsters, <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=0939960060"><font color="#368BA0">Lobsters: Florida, Bahamas, and the Caribbean</font></A></B></I>, a book on <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=0939960095"><font color="#368BA0">Breeding the Orchid Dottyback</font></A></B></I>, and <B><I><A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/books/bookdetail.php?ASIN=0939960109"><font color="#368BA0">The Marine Aquarists' Quiz Book</font></A></B></I>. The new edition of the <I>Reference</I> will update everything in the previous editions and include much more basic data and information on captive marine systems. Martin and Barbara now live in old house on the beach in Islamorada in the Florida Keys. The last three years have been a whirlwind of moving, working on the old house, trying to write, and of course, working with marine life and the fragile coral reef environment of the Florida Keys. A current project is working with the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary to restore the keystone herbivore, the long spined sea urchin, <I>Diadema antillarum</I>, to the reefs of the Keys. </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <p><A name=Tom><b><IMG SRC="http://www.pethobbyist.com/articles/Hosts/Images/Aqua.jpg" BORDER="1" ALIGN="left"><font color="#368BA0">Tom Lang<BR> Executive Director of Aquarius Aquarium Institute and President of The Breeders Registry</b> </b><br><br><br><font color="#368BA0"><i>Date and Time TBA in<br><A HREF="http://chat.pethobbyist.com/login.php?room_name=Fish+%26+Marine+Life+Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Fish and Marine Chat</font></A></i><BR><br></font> <font color=#464646><P> Tom Lang is the executive director of the <A HREF="http://www.aquariusaquarium.org" TARGET="_blank"><font color="#368BA0">Aquarius Aquarium Institute</font></A>, seeking to build a public aquarium overlooking the San Joaquin River in California's Central Valley. The facility will feature a 2 million gallon Oceanarium as its centerpiece exhibit. He is also the President/CEO of <A HREF="http://breeders-registry.gen.ca.us" TARGET="_blank"><font color="#368BA0">the Breeder's Registry</font></A>, which is dedicated to collecting and redistributing information about propagating marine organisms. According to Lang, "Most of the marine organisms kept in aquaria are not of commercial food fish interest. Much of what is known and to be learned about reproductive behaviors and culturing techniques for these marine species, especially the 'ornamental species,' is and will be, by the 'amateur' aquarist." <P> Lang and his wife Aletha also own <A HREF="http://www.aquariusaquarium.com/index.html" TARGET="_blank"><font color="#368BA0">Aquarius Aquarium</font></A>. Their company provides aquatic system design and consultation services and maintains aquariums for clients throughout Central California. <P> <I>Note: Tom Lang is a member of the staff of <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com"><font color="#368BA0">AquariumHobbyist.com</font></A>.</I> </font></font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <br> <font color=#464646>If you are unable to read this email, please visit</font> <a href="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/FishChat2003.html"><font color="#368BA0">http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/FishChat2003.html</font></a><font color=#464646> for a web based version.</font> </P></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR><tr><td><center><HR width=548 color=#368BA0 SIZE=2></center></tr></td></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/archive/fishtales/20031101000000/ <center> <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 bgColor=white border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD></td><td><TABLE cellSpacing=4 cellPadding=4 width=600 border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD><table border=1 bordercolor=#368BA0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td><center><A name=top><IMG src="http://aquariumhobbyist.com/artoffishkeeping/FTlogo.jpg"></A></center></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></tr></td></table><TABLE width=600 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=6 width=600 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=185 bgColor=#368BA0><FONT color=#D8C8BC> <P><BR><A name=Editor><STRONG>From the Editor<BR></STRONG></font><font color=white><font color=white><P> <center><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/16aa.jpg" BORDER="0" alt="Austin Aquariums, Courtesy of alterna" WIDTH="155"></center><br>Have you tested your water parameters lately? We can trace a lot of fish diseases back to poor water quality, whether it’s directly from toxic levels of ammonia and nitrite, from stress due to extremely elevated levels of nitrates, or shock due to drastic fluctuations in pH. Just because your water may look sparkling clean and the fish may seem happy it doesn’t mean your parameters are where they should be. <p> Get in the habit of testing you water at least once a month for tanks that are well established, or a couple of times a week for new tanks, so you can try and prevent diseases before they happen. Remember a clean uncrowded tank will have happier healthier fish than a dirty crowded tank. <P> <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phsplendens"><font color=white>PH Splendens</font></A><BR> Forum Coordinator<br>PetHobbyist<br>Site Coordinator<BR> <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/"><font color=white>Aquarium Hobbyist.com</font></A><BR> <CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <P align=left><A name=Hot><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">What’s Hot on AquariumHobbyist!</font></STRONG></P> Visit these links to see what topics are hot on the AquariumHobbyist forums this week! <font color=white><UL><LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7152,7152"><font color=white>Spikey fish illness?</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7208,7208"><font color=white>Missing Tail Fin!</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7144,7144"><font color=white>Will perculas only use anemones</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7120,7120"><font color=white>Nano tanks, need advice!</FONT></a> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=7141,7141"><font color=white>Algae Invasion!</FONT></a> </UL></FONT> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> <HR width=150 color=#545454 SIZE=4> <FONT color=white> <P align=left><A name=Chat><STRONG><font color="#D8C8BC">Fish Chats</font></STRONG><br> <i>All times Eastern<br> In <a href="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/chat/fishandmarinelife.html"><font color=white>Fish and Marine Life</FONT></a></i> <P>Friday 9-10 PM Fish Tales<br> Friday 10-11 PM Maquaculture<br> Sunday 8-9 PM Open Fish Chat <P></P></FONT> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#D8C8BC">Top</FONT></A></P> </td> </P> <TD> <H4><font color="#368BA0">November 1, 2003<br>IN THIS ISSUE?</font></H4> <FONT color=#464646><UL> <li><FONT color=#464646><A HREF="#Editor"><FONT color=#464646>From the Editor</font></a> <li><A HREF="#Hot"><FONT color=#464646>What’s Hot on AquariumHobbyist!</font></a> <li><A HREF="#article1"><FONT color=#464646>Starting a Saltwater Aquarium</font></a> <li><A HREF="#article2"><FONT color=#464646>Sandy Bottoms</font></a> <li><A HREF="#Chat"><FONT color=#464646>Chat Times & Days</font></a></UL></font> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> <P><STRONG><font color="#368BA0"><A name=article1>Starting a Saltwater Aquarium<BR> By <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phpiaffe"><font color="#368BA0">PHPiaffe</font></A><BR></STRONG></font> <font color=#464646><P> Starting a saltwater aquarium is really quite simple, if you know what you need to do. That’s where I’m going to help you! This month we’re going to set up a fish only tank with live rock, as that seems to be the most popular way to set up a saltwater aquarium these days. <P> <IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/151aa.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" ALT="Austin Aquariums, Courtesy of alterna" width="165">First things first, you need to get a tank. I would recommend a tank at least 55 gallons in size: it’s hard to keep your water chemistry stable in a tank smaller than that, and you do have the added advantage of being able to keep more than two fish. So, go to the aquarium store, pick out your tank, glass lids (most tanks come with these today) and light fixtures. You’ll need at least two 24” light fixtures, or one 48” light fixture. I honestly would do more light than that and recommend that you purchase four 24” light fixtures, two 48” light fixtures, or one 48” double bulb fixture. You’ll definitely need a stand since saltwater is quite heavy and weighs approximately 8.9 pounds per gallon, and that’s just the water. Weather or not you purchase a canopy is up to you, some people like them some people hate them. I personally couldn’t care less except in the case of a display tank in a living area or some place where people congregate. Then I’d say get a canopy to complete the look of the aquarium. <p>You’ll want to place your tank and stand in a “good” location. Ideally not too far from a sink or drain of some sort, and close to an outlet. You’ll need at least one surge protector or power strip to plug your lights, filters, heater, skimmer, and pumps into. I would advise placing the tank at least a foot to either side of the outlet, so salt creep becomes less of a factor and you won’t get accidentally electrocuted when you go to clean your plugs. The stand should not be flush with the wall, so it will allow for things that hang on the back of the tank, like some skimmers, some filters, overflow boxes, and other things. It also makes your tank easier to clean if it’s not leaning up against the wall. <P> <IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/24354103_0373.JPG" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" ALT="Another pic, Courtesy of Mildu409" width="170">Once you have your tank placed, its time to set up your filtration. For a Fish Only Tank With Live Rock (FOWLR) I suggest using a sump filter or a canister filter with a hang on the back protein skimmer. The sump filter is probably a better choice as you can then put your skimmer and heater in the sump and keep them out of the main display area of the tank. Set up your sump so that your outflow pump cycles your tank a minimum of 4 to 6 times an hour. I prefer more than this, but some fish don’t like the current that a higher flow rate produces. If you’re using a canister filter, make sure that you fill one basket with a nitrate absorbing resin, as canister filters are notorious for becoming “nitrate sinks”. If you’re using a sump, you might consider removing the bioballs from their chamber and adding only a fine grained filter pad instead. This will help keep the filter from holding too much nitrate later on, once the tank is cycled. Once a month if not more you will need to rinse out the filter pads to keep the particles from impeding the flow of the filter. At this time put your skimmer in place. If you’re using a hang on the back skimmer, like a CPR BakPak 2, you should hang and adjust it to one side of the back of the tank. Don’t hang it in the middle, that makes it hard to get to and you’ll be less likely to do the proper maintenance as needed. If you’re using a skimmer in the sump, you should place it so the water for the tank goes through it before it pumps it back into the main display. We’ll discuss more on skimmers later in the article. <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/1175aa.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" ALT="Austin Aquariums, Courtesy of alterna" width="155">Now that you have that finished, you can add your substrate and live rock. Substrate should either be a medium grade crushed coral, which is exactly that, coral skeletons that have been crushed up to make a lumpy looking substrate, which doesn’t compact too badly, and is easy to care for, or you can use aragonite, which is a sugar fine sand that helps keep hardness and pH at the ideal level. I recommend using live sand, or at least part live sand and part aragonite as substrate, especially if you’re going to be using live rock. You want at least one pound of sand or coral per gallon of water; usually in the case of sand you want a minimum of 2 inches of substrate in the bottom of the tank. This will allow for the bacteria in the sand to effectively reduce nitrogenous wastes produced by the living things in the aquarium. As for live rock, you want at a bare minimum of half a pound of rock per gallon of water. I prefer one pound per gallon, but in smaller tanks this isn’t always practical. Some good choices for rock are Fiji, which is nice and purple and porous, and Marshall Islands, which is usually pink or red and is also very porous. Both of these are expensive, but if you can get them, they are wonderful types of rock for the aquarium. Stay away from “base rock” which has no growth of any type on it and is going to be white and look dead. This is not true “live rock”, its rock that has been killed by something (usually bleach) and made to be behind the true live rock and allow for stability. I personally think that the more true live rock you use, the better your filtration is, and that’s what I would recommend. <p>Once you have your rock and sand in, you can fill up your aquarium. You should have premixed salt water with a salinity of 1.023. Add the water slowly, turn on your heater and filters, and wait a day or so, then turn on and adjust your skimmer. Your skimmer should produce greenish sludge and white foam with the consistency of egg whites. Clean the cup as needed, but do not allow it to get so full to the point the effluvia runs back into the tank. This can cause your tank conditions to deteriorate rapidly. <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/24354103_0373.JPG" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" ALT="Another pic, Courtesy of Mildu409" width="170">As for lighting, if you purchase cured live rock, you can turn on your lights immediately, but if you purchase uncured rock, which I actually recommend, you won’t need your lights for at least a month. Once the rock has cured, you can turn your lights on. In a Fish Only (FO) tank, you need only two bulbs, one actinic blue and one daylight bulb. I like 10,000k bulbs, as they are very bright but do not have a high red spectrum and thus don’t tend to produce massive algae growth. <p>Once your rock is cured and your tank is cycled, your test values should read as follows: <UL> <LI>Ammonia: 0 <LI>Nitrite: 0 <LI>Nitrate: 0-10 ppm (up to 40 ppm is basically harmless to most fish, but the lower the better) <LI>Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 </UL> <p>Once those values are established, you must strive to keep them stable. Your fish will thank you for it. <p>I would also advise placing at least three powerheads throughout the tank to circulate water and add gas exchange properties. Place them as you see fit, but at least one must be at the top of the tank, circulating the water and making it move around to facilitate oxygenation of the water. <p>Next month we’ll talk about what fish are safe to keep together and hardy enough for the beginning aquarist! <p>Good luck and remember fish are fun!</font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P></FONT><FONT color=white><FONT color=#ffffff> <center><HR width=250 color=#414141 SIZE=4></center> </FONT> <P><A name=article2><FONT color=#ffffff><STRONG><font color="#368BA0">Sandy Bottoms<BR> By <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phsplendens"><font color="#368BA0">PH Splendens</font></A><BR></font></STRONG><BR><font color=#464646><P> <IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/35386view1.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" ALT="Office Aquascape, Courtesy of aquaticscapes" width="165">For some time you may have considered using sand for a substrate, but have shied away from it due to the myths surrounding sand. Some people believe that sand will cause excessive amounts of nitrates, while others believe it will cause different forms of algae to grow, and then there are others that believe sand is harder to clean than gravel. Well the fact is the first two can occur no matter what substrate you are using, it all depends on your cleaning habits. If you don’t clean your tank regularly nitrates will rise and due to higher nitrates your bound to get different forms of algae. <p>There are a couple of drawbacks that you do get with sand, just as there are drawbacks you would get with other substrates. <OL> <LI>Anaerobic bacteria grow faster in sandy bottoms. <LI>Sand can get sucked into the intake tube of your filter and damage your impeller.</OL> <P> You can overcome these drawbacks though. In order to prevent anaerobic bacteria from growing, you need to gently stir the sand when you perform tank maintenance. Stirring the sand will break up any anaerobic pockets (meaning areas that lack oxygen) that may be forming, which is the perfect environment for anaerobic bacteria to grow. You need to make sure that when stirring the sand that you get to the bottom of the tank, and that you do all and not part of the sand. This may have you asking if doing this won’t disturb the beneficial bacteria, the fact is no it will not. Beneficial bacteria are tough little guys and once they attach to the sand it would be impossible to upset them with a little stirring. <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/208munchside3.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" ALT="Pleco Portrait, Courtesy of Jan G" width="150">The second drawback is a bit more difficult to overcome, especially if you have a small tank or a tank that isn’t very tall. Most filters come with extension tubes so you can get the intake tube as close to the bottom of the tank as possible, and a lot of people use them. If you are one that uses the extension tube, take it off. The closer to the bottom the intake tube is, the greater the chance it will suck up sand. If your filter didn’t come with an extension tube and it sits fairly low in the tank, then you can take off the intake tube strainer basket and cut some of the intake tube off to raise it. Eventually slime will cover the sand, which will greatly reduce the amount of sand that floats through the water and prevent it from getting into your filter. You can also try covering the strainer basket to the intake tube with things such as sponges that are used in filters, or panty hose. <p>You may be wondering if these are the drawbacks, what are the benefits to using sand. Well there is one major benefit when it comes to sand, and that is all waste gets removed when you clean the tank, and in return less waste sitting in your tank will help keep nitrates in check. Waste sits on top of the sand instead of sinking in like it does with gravel, and it’s a simple matter of just vacuuming it up, and you can instantly see when it’s all up. Being able to see all the waste will also help you to determine if you’re feeding your fish too much. If you are feeding them too much then you will be able to cut back immediately, which in turn will help keep the nitrates down since less waste sitting in the bottom and less waste your fish produce equal fewer nitrates. <P> <IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/40182Untitled-Scanned-37.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" ALT="Frontosa's and friend 50 gallon, Courtesy of freshmike" width="165">Now that you know what is involved in having sand as a substrate you may be ready to make the change. Check around for the different types of sand available, there are several, Black Tahitian Moon and play sand, which can be found at your local home improvement stores, are just a couple. </font> <P align=right><A href="#top"><font color="#368BA0">Top</FONT></A></P> </P></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR><tr><td><center><HR width=589 color=#368BA0 SIZE=2><P><BR><P>_______________________________<BR><I>Fishtales is copyright 2003 by OnlineHobbyist.com unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.</I><BR>_______________________________<BR></center></tr></td></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></center> http://news.pethobbyist.com/index.cgi/archive/fishtales/20030627000000/ <B>FishTales</B><BR>The newsletter of AquariumHobbyist.com<BR>June 27, 2003<P> <B>In This Issue:</B><P> <B><li>From the Editor</B><BR> <B><li>What’s Hot on AquariumHobbyist!</B><BR> <B><li>Keeping and Breeding Mollies</B><BR> <B><li>What To Do When The Power Goes Out</B></li> <P><BR> <B>From the Editor</B> <P><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/35386view1.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" alt="Office Aquascape, Courtesy of aquaticscapes" WIDTH="200"> If you’re keeping fish then you are going to face disease at some point or another. Do you know what to do when your fish are sick or appear to be sick? A lot of people will panic when their fish appear to be sick, but by planning ahead of time on what to do just in case, you won’t have to think when panic sets in. <P>Here are a few things to keep on hand: <P> <LI>Extra water conditioner <LI>Tetracycline tablets and other ingredients for making a medicated food such as extra fish food and unflavored gelatin. <LI>Test kits for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates <LI>Medications such as Aquari-Sol and Quick Cure, which will treat a wide range of diseases. <p>If you would like further tips on what to do in an emergency refer to <a href="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/articles/SickFish.html">"Got a Sick Fish?"</a> by Jonathan Lowrie. <p> Click <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phsplendens">here</a> to submit ideas or articles for <I>FishTales</I>, and put Attention: FishTales at the top of your message. <P> <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phsplendens">PH Splendens</A><BR> Forum Coordinator<br>PetHobbyist<br>Site Coordinator<BR> <A HREF="http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/">Aquarium Hobbyist.com</A><BR> <BR> <P><BR> <B>What’s Hot on AquariumHobbyist!</B><P> Visit these thinks to see what topics are hot on the AquariumHobbyist forums this week! <P> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=2929,2929">Saltwater fish right for me?</a><br> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=2960,2960">Need Reef Pointers!</a><br> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=2967,2967">Adding Enrichment to Morays</a><br> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=2997,2997">Shubunkins and Comets the same?</a> <br> <LI><a href="http://forums.aquariumhobbyist.com/view.php?id=2929,2929">Trouble with Fluval</a> <P><BR> <B>Molly</B><BR> By <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phphoenix">PHPhoenix</A> <P><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/16077Molliesguppies.JPG" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" alt="Dalmation Mollie Fry and Guppies, Courtesy of EnziruFishu" WIDTH="195"> Mollies are livebearing fish in the <I>Poecilia</I> family, originating in parts of North, Central and South America. "Livebearer" means the females will give birth to live fry, rather than depositing eggs. There are many types of classifications of Mollies, which include <I>Poecilia sphenops</I>, <I>Poecilia latipinna</I>, <I>Poecilia chica</I>, <I>Poecilia vivipara</I>, <I>Poecilia mexicana mexicana</I>, and <I>Poecilia velifera</I>. <P> Mollies come in many color variations besides the standard black molly. The types of variations include dwarf, sailfin, 24-carat gold, lyretail, one spot, gold dust, tuxedo, short finned, pointed mouth, shortfin, and pearl. Mollies can be found in fish and pet shops. They are the most common beginner fish besides the guppy. <p>Housing is very simple, depending on the species of molly you purchased. There is a minimum of 20-40 gallons because of the length they grow to. <P> Here's what you need for your mollies: <p> <p><LI>20-40 gallon aquarium (Minimum) <LI>Gravel (any color), or sand <LI>Dechlorinated water, (you can buy dechlorination chemicals at your local fish or pet store), or you can put water in jugs and let them sit for 24-48 hours so chlorine can evaporate. <LI>Aquarium fish net (any size) <LI>Thermometer <LI>Heater <LI>Filter <LI>Air stone, with air tubing <LI>Medium lighting <LI>Tropical fish flake food <LI>Sea salt (you can purchase a box at your local fish and pet store) <p>Depending on the size of aquarium you have depends on how many mollies and fish can be housed. For example (20 gallon - no more than 11-15 small fish, or 5 large or medium fish. <p>Feedings should only be once a day. You can feed your molly tropical fish flakes. There are also other foods you can give them for extra nutrition such as: Brine Shrimp, Daphnia, and Blood Worms. It is necessary to add sea salt to your fish tank with mollies, because they are brackish water fish and not freshwater. <P><b><i>Breeding Mollies</i></b> <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/16077MaleWhitesailfin.JPG" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" alt="Male White Sailfin Mollie, Courtesy of EnziruFishu" WIDTH="198">What happens when a molly is pregnant? Your molly will most likely look like there is a something bulging on the underside. However with a black molly it's hard to see her gravid spot, so the size of her belly may be a better indicator. If you suspect your female molly is pregnant then place her in another aquarium such as a small 5-10 gallon with a breeder net. This will keep the mother on top. When she gives birth, the babies will fit thru a small hole to the bottom half of the tank, keeping them safe. After the mother has rested you can then place her back in the other aquarium with the other adult mollies. This will leave the babies by themselves to grow. You must then feed the fry 4-5 small feedings a day. Since fry need extra feedings, you will need to clean their tank 3 to 4 times a week to keep water parameters under control. <p>Foods that safe for fry are: <p> <LI>Baby brine shrimp <LI>Liquid fry food for livebearers <LI>Micro worms <LI>Tropical fish flake food (crushed into fine powder) <p>Once the fry have grown to 1 inch it will be time to place them into the aquarium with the other adult fish. <p>Mollies can be a good beginner fish. Not only are they pleasant to watch, but are very peaceful and not aggressive towards other community fish. <P><BR> <B>What To Do When The Power Goes Out</B><BR> By <A HREF="http://www.pethobbyist.com/phcontact/index.php?ph=phsplendens">PH Splendens</A> <P><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/3772botia-spp.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="right" alt="Botia spp., Courtesy of kamphol" WIDTH="205"> All year round there are storms, tornados, hurricanes, and blizzards. All of these common events, and others that may not be so common, can cause your power to go out. There are several things that can happen to your tank while the power is out. <p> <LI>It can get too hot <LI>It can get too cold <LI>Lack of surface movement prevents the gas to oxygen exchange <LI>Fish can suffocate <LI>Bacteria can die off <LI>Live plants can die <LI>Fish can die <p>Your tank can crash, leaving you with an underwater wasteland and causing you to have to start your tank from scratch. There are many things you can do to try and prevent this from happening, and the time of year will determine what measures you need to take to make sure most everything in your aquarium survives. <P> One of the first things you will need to do is prepare everything before the power goes out. There are several items you will need to buy and keep on hand just in case. <p> <LI>A generator. This will take care of all your tanks' needs and nothing else will be necessary <LI>A battery operated air pump, more than one for larger tanks or several tanks <LI>Battery operated fans <LI>Battery operated heaters <LI>Kerosene heaters <LI>Large blankets <p>No matter what time of year it is, if you can afford it, a generator can power all of your aquariums' basic equipment and will be the only thing you will need to save your fish if the power goes out, well the only thing other than the gas to power it. If you don't have or can't afford a generator one major thing to keep in mind, which will prevent your water parameters from going completely out of whack, is to reduce or cut out feedings completely. <p><i><b>During Warmer Weather</b></i> <p><IMG SRC="http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/772146bow.jpg" BORDER="0" ALIGN="left" alt="African Cichlids, Courtesy of rottiedog" WIDTH="200">Warm weather will cause your tank to overheat pretty quickly, and you will need to be prepared to keep it cool if the power goes out, along with making sure oxygen can get to the bacteria and fish. The first thing you will want to do is open doors and windows so air can circulate through your home. A closed up home is a heat trap and the temperature in your tank will rise more quickly. Next, you will need to hook up your battery-operated air pump to get some water circulation. This will help with the gas to oxygen exchange and provide the oxygen both fish and bacteria need to live. Also, since water circulation helps in cooling a tank, it will help keep the temperature down. If you notice your tank temperature start to rise, add the battery-operated fans and direct them to blow across the surface. This will help to cool your tank off even more. <P> If by chance a power outage catches you unprepared there are other things you can do to help keep your tank cool and help with the gas to oxygen exchange. You can cool your tank off by doing small water changes if you notice the temperature starting to rise, and to cool it off further you can add ice cubes to a baggie and place them in the tank. However, it is best to only use the ice cubes in dire situations, since they will cause parts of the tank to become cooler than others. Fish that swim through these cool areas will become stressed. Not only will doing small water changes help cool your tank, but since